View source for Oshiroi

{{Short description|Traditional white foundation used in Japan}}
{{Expand Japanese|おしろい|date=August 2014}}
{{Citations needed|date=October 2019}}
{{Italic title}}
{{nihongo||白粉|'''Oshiroi'''}} is a powder [[foundation (cosmetics)|foundation]] traditionally used by [[kabuki]] actors, [[geisha]] and their [[maiko|apprentices]]. The word is written with [[kanji]] meaning "white powder", and is pronounced as the word for white ({{transliteration|ja|shiroi}}) with the [[Honorific speech in Japanese#Honorific prefixes|honorific prefix]] {{transliteration|ja|o-}}.

When worn by [[geisha]] and {{transliteration|ja|[[maiko]]}}, {{transliteration|ja|oshiroi}} is notable for only partially covering the [[nape]] of the neck, as an uncovered nape was traditionally considered erotic in Japanese culture.<ref>{{cite book |title=Womansword: What Japanese Words Say about Women |first=Kittredge |last=Cherry |author-link=Kittredge Cherry |publisher=Kodansha |year=1987 |isbn=4-7700-1655-7 |page=21}}</ref>

==Description==
{{transliteration|ja|Oshiroi}} is traditionally applied over a base of two types of wax used as a primer: {{nihongo||石練|ishineri}} is applied to the eyebrows, whereas {{transliteration|ja|bintsuke}} (facial wax) is applied to cover the rest of the face and the neck. The upper portion of back is also covered if the wearer will be dressed in a {{transliteration|ja|[[Kimono#Susohiki/Hikizuri|susohiki]]}} ("trailing skirt") kimono, where the upper half of the neck will be visible.

The {{transliteration|ja|oshiroi}} is mixed with water before being applied with a wide, flat brush over the neck, face and back. The {{transliteration|ja|oshiroi}} must be mixed carefully with water to achieve the right consistency, and can be difficult to achieve, as {{transliteration|ja|oshiroi}} that has too much moisture will not apply smoothly to the face, and {{transliteration|ja|oshiroi}} that has too little will crack and potentially fall off when worn.

{{transliteration|ja|Oshiroi}} is painted straight over the eyebrows, with the {{transliteration|ja|ishineri}} providing a smooth surface over the eyebrows to be painted over. The face is then powdered with rice powder, before the details around the eyes, eyebrows and mouth are drawn in.

==Application==
===Geisha and {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}===
[[File:Wareshinobu back.jpg|thumb|upright|alt=A {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} wearing a blue kimono viewed from the back.|{{transliteration|ja|Maiko}} Katsune wearing {{transliteration|ja|oshiroi}} in the {{transliteration|ja|eri-ashi}} style]]

For both geisha and {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}, application of {{transliteration|ja|oshiroi}} varies by occasion, use, and sometimes region.

Both geisha and {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} wear {{transliteration|ja|oshiroi}} on the face and neck, but application on the back of the neck differs per occasion. For most situations, a pattern known as {{nihongo3|{{lit|nape legs}}|襟足|eri-ashi}} is worn, forming two triangular stripes of unpainted skin from the nape of the neck downward. For formal occasions, a three-stripe pattern known as {{nihongo3|{{lit|triple legs}}|三本足|sanbon-ashi}} is used.

{{transliteration|ja|Eri-ashi}} can be painted freehand with a smaller brush, but {{transliteration|ja|sanbon-ashi}} is generally painted using a stencil.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Ishihara |first1=Tetsuo |title=Nihongami no Sekai: Maiko no kamigata (The World of Traditional Japanese Hairstyles/Hairstyles of The Maiko) |date=2004 |publisher=The Tetsuo Ishihara Museum of Traditional Japanese Hairstyles |location=Kyoto-shi, Japan |isbn=4990218604 |pages=66–70 |edition=1st}}</ref> Both geisha and {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}, whilst aiming for a white-faced appearance, do not use a heavy application of {{transliteration|ja|oshiroi}} unless worn for special performances, instead blending the foundation into the skin with the use of a blusher, known as {{transliteration|ja|tonoko}}.

For geisha and {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}, application of {{transliteration|ja|oshiroi}} varies depending on age, status and region. Since the application of {{transliteration|ja|oshiroi}} can prove challenging, a younger {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} may have her {{transliteration|ja|okā-san}} ("mother" – typically the mother of the [[okiya|geisha house]]) or her "older sister" geisha mentor apply it for her at first.

Younger apprentices may, in some regions, wear only {{transliteration|ja|oshiroi}} and blusher at the beginning of their apprenticeship to mark their inexperience, with the addition of black and red eyeliner at a later stage. Likewise, senior geisha tend not to wear any blusher, and wear {{transliteration|ja|oshiroi}} on fewer occasions over time, eventually wearing it only for special occasions and stage performances.{{Citation needed|date=October 2019}}

The style of how a {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} wears {{transliteration|ja|oshiroi}} may also vary depending on the region of Japan an apprentice works in; in some districts, apprentices may only wear a light application of {{transliteration|ja|oshiroi}}, whereas in others, a heavier application is more common. Makeup styles may also vary in their use of blusher, red eyeliner and black eyeliner; this typically depends on both the inclinations of the mother of the house, and the general style of the [[hanamachi|geisha district]].

===Kabuki===
In contrast to geisha and {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}, kabuki actors apply their {{transliteration|ja|oshiroi}} thickly, creating a bright white face visible from the furthest seats in the audience. A kabuki actor doing a quick change between characters may simply paint over their previous makeup, as {{transliteration|ja|oshiroi}} is opaque enough that previous makeup will not be visible.

==History==
{{transliteration|ja|Oshiroi}} was used as base makeup before foundation was adopted in Japan. However, once foundation became commonplace, some began to use it over foundation as a loose powder or as a pressed powder for touch-ups.

In the past, the type of {{transliteration|ja|oshiroi}} used contained [[white lead]], and would eventually give the wearer [[lead poisoning]].<ref>{{cite book |last1=Dalby |first1=Liza |title=Geisha |date=2000 |publisher=Vintage Random House |location=London |isbn=0-09-928638-6 |page=[https://archive.org/details/geisha00dalb/page/140 140] |edition=3rd |url-access=registration |url=https://archive.org/details/geisha00dalb/page/140}}</ref> The use of white lead in makeup was outlawed in Japan in 1934.{{citation needed|date=August 2020}}{{circular reporting|reason=This date comes from the corresponding Japanese wikipedia article, but has no citation there, either. When adding citations, be wary that some sources using this date were written after this sentence was added to this article.|date=July 2020}}

==See also==
* {{transliteration|ja|[[Bijin]]}}
* {{transliteration|ja|[[Bijin-ga]]}}

==References==
{{reflist}}

{{Japanese beauty}}
{{Cosmetics}}

[[Category:Cosmetics]]
[[Category:Cultural history of Japan]]
[[Category:Japanese fashion]]
[[Category:Japanese words and phrases]]

{{fashion-stub}}
{{Japan-culture-stub}}