Oshiroi
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Oshiroi (白粉) is a powder foundation traditionally used by kabuki actors, geisha and their maiko apprentices. The word "oshiroi" literally means "white powder", and is pronounced as the word for white (shiroi) with the honorific prefix o-.
Description
Oshiroi is traditionally applied over a base of two types of wax used as a primer. Ishineri (石練) is applied to the eyebrows, whereas bintsuke (facial wax) is applied to cover the rest of the face and the neck; the upper portion of back is also covered if the wearer will be dressed in a susohiki (lit., "trailing skirt") kimono, where the upper half of the neck will be visible.
The oshiroi is mixed with water before being applied with a wide, flat brush over the neck, face and back. The oshiroi must be mixed carefully with water to achieve the right consistency, and can be difficult to achieve, as oshiroi that has too much moisture will not apply smoothly to the face, and oshiroi that has too little will crack and potentially fall off when worn.
Oshiroi is painted straight over the eyebrows, with the ishineri providing a smooth surface over the eyebrows to be painted over. The face is then powdered with rice powder, before the details around the eyes, eyebrows and mouth are drawn in.
Application
Application of oshiroi varies by occasion, use, and sometimes region (in terms of geisha and maiko).
Both geisha and maiko paint the oshiroi on the back of their neck into a pattern called eri-ashi (襟足) - "neck stripes", describing a two-stripe pattern specifically. For formal occasions, a three stripe pattern is used, called sanbon-ashi (三本足) ('three pointed stripes'). Eri-ashi can be painted freehand with a smaller brush, but sanbon-ashi are painted using a stencil.[1]
Kabuki actors will apply their oshiroi thickly, creating a bright white face visible from the furthest seats in the audience. A kabuki actor doing a quick change between characters may simply paint over their previous makeup, as oshiroi is opaque enough that previous makeup will not be visible.
For geisha and maiko, application of oshiroi varies depending on age, status and region, though it is never applied as thickly as seen in kabuki. Since the application of oshiroi can prove challenging, a younger maiko may have her oka-san ("mother" - the older or retired geisha supervising her training) or her "older sister" geisha mentor apply it for her at first. Senior geisha will begin to wear oshiroi less and less over time, and eventually will only wear it for special occasions and stage performances.[citation needed]
Some regional geisha trainees may blend their oshiroi out to a very light application, whereas others in other regions may wear it more heavily; this depends on the inclinations of the mother of the house and the style of the district.
History
In the past, the type of oshiroi used contained white lead, and would eventually give the wearer lead poisoning.[2] The use of white lead in makeup was outlawed in Japan in 1934.
See also
References
- ^ Ishihara, Tetsuo (2004). Nihongami no Sekai: Maiko no kamigata (The World of Traditional Japanese Hairstyles/Hairstyles of The Maiko) (1st ed.). Kyoto-shi, Japan: The Tetsuo Ishihara Museum of Traditional Japanese Hairstyles. pp. 66–70. ISBN 4990218604.
- ^ Dalby, Liza (2000). Geisha (3rd ed.). London: Vintage Random House. p. 140. ISBN 0 09 928638 6.
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