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{{short description|Pair of spectacles with a handle}} |
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A '''lorgnette''' is a pair of [[glasses]] or a mask that, rather than fitting over the ears, has a handle by which to hold them in place. They were invented by an Englishman named [[George Adams (optician)|George Adams]]. The lorgnette was usually worn as a piece of jewelry, rather than to enhance vision. Fashionable ladies usually wore them rather than spectacles. These were very popular at [[masquerade ball|masquerade parties]] and used often at the opera<!--when??-->. |
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{{for|the Thoroughbred racehorse|La Lorgnette}} |
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[[File:Lorgnette3BedfordMuseum-mod.jpg|thumb|right|Folding set of Lorgnette spectacles, [[The Higgins Art Gallery & Museum|Bedford Museum, Bedford]].]] |
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[[File:Lorgnette spectacles belonging to David Scott Mitchell a1872001.jpg|thumb|right|Lorgnette used by [[David Scott Mitchell]]]] |
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A '''lorgnette''' ({{IPAc-en|l|ɔː|ˈ|n|j|ɛ|t}}) is a pair of [[glasses|spectacles]] with a handle, used to hold them in place, rather than fitting over the ears or nose. The word ''lorgnette'' is derived from the French ''lorgner'', to take a sidelong look at, and Middle French, from ''lorgne'', squinting.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/lorgnette|title=Lorgnette - Definition and More from the Free Merriam-Webster Dictionary|publisher=Merriam-webster.com|access-date=21 October 2014}}</ref> Their precise origin is debated: some sources describe English scientist [[George Adams (scientist, died 1773)|George Adams the elder]] as their inventor, while others cite his son [[George Adams (scientist, died 1795)|George Adams the younger]].<ref name="Rosenthal1996Lorgnettes">{{cite book|last1=Rosenthal|first1=J. William|title=Spectacles and Other Vision Aids: A History and Guide to Collecting|date=1996|publisher=Norman Publishing|isbn=978-0-930405-71-7|pages=118–137|chapter=Lorgnettes|chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=lp4LAAAAIAAJ&pg=PA118}}</ref><ref name=":0">{{Cite book|last=Goes|first=Frank Joseph|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=v0oL8xDJ0VEC&q=%22george+adams%22+%22lorgnette%22&pg=PA164|title=The Eye in History|date=2013-01-30|publisher=JP Medical Ltd|isbn=978-93-5090-274-5|language=en}}</ref> |
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The lorgnette was usually used as a piece of [[jewelry]], rather than to enhance vision. Fashionable ladies usually preferred them to spectacles. These were very popular at [[masquerade ball|masquerade parties]] and used often at the opera. They were worn popularly in the 19th century. The lorgnette was employed as a prop and affectation by early 20th century trial lawyer [[Earl Rogers]], and one is featured on the front cover dust jacket of his biography, ''Final Verdict'', by his daughter [[Adela Rogers St. Johns]].<ref>''Final Verdict'' by [[Adela Rogers St. Johns]], 1962, Doubleday & Co.{{page needed|date=January 2021}}<!-- ISSN/ISBN needed --></ref> |
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{{Cleanup|date=January 2007}} |
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== Etymology == |
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This word comes from French ''lorgnette'', from ''lorgner'' (to take a sidelong look at), but it is a false friend: the equivalent French name for this (obsolete) optical instrument is ''face-à-main'' while ''lorgnette'' (or ''lunette d'approche'', ''longue-vue'') usually means a ship captain's (monocular) [[telescope]]. |
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[[Category:French words and phrases]] |
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[[Category:Eyewear]] |
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== Description and types == |
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[[File:Lorgnette fan MET 10377.jpg|thumb|Fan lorgnette from late 18th century]] |
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Lorgnettes can typically be identified as a pair of spectacles on the end of a handle.<ref name=Rosenthal1996Lorgnettes/> There are many types and forms of the lorgnette. The handles of a lorgnette may vary in length or may be incorporated in various decorative or functional ways. |
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Lorgnettes were made from a range of different materials including [[Tortoiseshell|tortoise shell]], horn, [[silver]], [[gold]], enamel, and various kinds of jewels.<ref name=":4">{{cite web |last1=Handley |first1=Neil |title=Lorgnettes and folding eyeglasses |url=https://www.college-optometrists.org/the-college/museum/online-exhibitions/virtual-spectacles-gallery/lorgnettes-and-folding-eyeglasses.html |website=The College of Optometrists }}</ref> Many lorgnettes had handles which also served as a protective case for the lenses to fold into, therefore making it easier to carry around. |
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{{clothing-stub}} |
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The fan lorgnette and the double lorgnette are examples of variations of the lorgnette. |
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[[da:Lorgnet]] |
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[[de:Lorgnon]] |
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The fan lorgnette is an accessory where the lorgnette is hidden in the fan and used to inconspicuously observe others.<ref name=":3">{{cite book |doi=10.1007/978-94-011-0127-1_18 |chapter=Optical uses of fans |title=History of Ophthalmology |year=1995 |last1=Rosenthal |first1=J. Wm. |pages=193–198 |isbn=978-0-7923-3401-9 |editor1-first=Daniel M. |editor1-last=Albert |editor2-first=Claudia |editor2-last=Zrenner }}</ref> An unusual variant of the fan lorgnette is the French/Spanish “Flirtation Fan” or “Eventail Cocarde” which has a unique use of [[mirror]]s and methods of opening and closing.<ref name=":3" /> |
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[[sv:Lornjett]] |
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A double lorgnette (also known as dual purpose lorgnette) consists of two pairs of spectacle [[lens]]es of different power, typically one for [[Far-sightedness|far-sighted vision]] and one for [[Near-sightedness|near-sighted vision.]]<ref name=ProQuest911862354/> |
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== History == |
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From its invention to around the 17th century, corrective eyeglasses were mainly for the use of men.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Ilardi |first1=Vincent |title=Renaissance vision from spectacles to telescopes |date=2007 |publisher=American Philosophical Society |isbn=978-0-87169-259-7 |oclc=74966726 }}{{page needed|date=January 2021}}</ref> It was not common practice for women to use optical aids unless they were to partake in specific activities or tasks in which they were required to use them such as [[sewing]] or [[reading]].<ref name=":4" /> Women wearing spectacles in [[public]] was also not considered [[physical attractiveness|attractive]].<ref name=ProQuest1914172686/> |
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Following the introduction and [[Popularity|popularisation]] of the lorgnette, women became more involved with the use of optical aids. The lorgnette enabled women to view their surroundings clearly, but it was also used for social and decorative purposes. A large portion of the social life of European ladies involved the observation of the people around them, especially the attendance of others at events such as opera or theatre.<ref name=":3" /> The lorgnette was part of the elegant games of [[High society (social class)|high society]].<ref name=":5" /> The use of lorgnettes allowed women of high society to easily scrutinise objects of interest without directly facing their subject.<ref name=":3" /> |
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The exact specificities of the time, people involved and nature of the [[invention]] of the lorgnette is debatable. Some sources credit English scientist [[George Adams (scientist, died 1773)|George Adams the elder]] with their invention around 1770.<ref name="Rosenthal1996Lorgnettes" /><ref name=":4" /> Others cite his son [[George Adams (scientist, died 1795)|George Adams the younger]] as their inventor around 1780, although he himself credits his father with their invention in his 1789 book ''An Essay on Vision''.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last=Adams|first=George|url=http://archive.org/details/b21438559|title=An essay on vision, briefly explaining the fabric of the eye|publisher=R. Hindmarsh|year=1789|location=London|pages=117|via=Internet Archive}}</ref> In this work, the lorgnette was described as "a kind of substitute for spectacles. Both eyes are used at once, without any effort", and was accompanied with an illustration.<ref name=":1" /> It is also mentioned that the lorgnette was contrived to allow for more convenience and ease in looking at any occasional object.<ref name=":1" /> |
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Early versions of the lorgnette were focused on the practicality and functionality of the spectacles to the user due to their round rims and heavier, undecorated designs.<ref name=":4" /> However, over time, the lorgnette began to serve as more of a decorative accessory, especially for women attending opera or theatre.<ref name=":4" /> |
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== Fashion and popular culture == |
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[[File:Portrait of Louise von Wertheimstein (Vienna 1813-1890), born Biedermann.jpg|thumb|Portrait of Louise von Wertheimstein holding a lorgnette]] |
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The lorgnette was presented as a necessity for [[Women in England|English women]] who suffered from short-sightedness as well as a fashionable [[Fashion accessory|accessory]].<ref>{{cite book |last1=Cunnington |first1=C. Willett |title=English women's clothing in the nineteenth century |date=1990 |publisher=Dover Publications |isbn=978-0-486-31963-6 |oclc=853623780 }}{{page needed|date=January 2021}}</ref><ref name=ProQuest1914172686>{{cite magazine |id={{ProQuest|1914172686}} |title=The Lorgnette |magazine=Harper's Bazaar |volume=28 |issue=27 |date=6 July 1895 |page=544 }}</ref> It was thought of as an attractive alternative to conventional glasses or spectacles, as these were considered unbecoming for women to wear in public.<ref name=ProQuest1914172686/> Over time, lorgnettes came to be used as decoration rather than for practical purposes. |
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Lorgnettes were valued for features such as how they could easily be carried around at one's own [[discretion]] and how they could be quickly taken out and lifted into place on the face to swiftly [[Observation|observe]] or find answers to questions with grace.<ref name=ProQuest1914172686/><ref name=ProQuest911862354>{{cite journal |id={{ProQuest|911862354}} |title=Fashion: The Lorgnette in Fashion |journal=Vogue |volume=125 |issue=8 |date=1 May 1955 |pages=122, 123, 179 }}</ref> Lorgnettes were considered to be a great addition to outfits. This was especially so for women preparing their attire to go to the [[theatre]] or [[opera]].<ref name=ProQuest911862354/> As a vision aid and fashion statement, it was an accessory that allowed fashionable and vision impaired women to clearly see the action on the stage with ease and to partake in the games of [[High society (social class)|high society]].<ref>{{cite book |title=The literary lorgnette: attending opera in imperial Russia |date=1 November 2000 }}</ref><ref name=":5">{{cite book |last1=Goes |first1=Frank Joseph |title=Eye in history |date=2013 |publisher=Jaypee Brothers |isbn=978-93-5090-274-5 |oclc=813930522 }}{{page needed|date=January 2021}}</ref> |
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[[Wallis Simpson|The Duchess of Windsor]] is said to have owned a collection of lorgnettes and thereby to have brought the lorgnette back to fashion in the 1950s.<ref name=ProQuest911862354/> She is described to have been especially fond of a particular lorgnette that “springs out from a small tiger handle of gold, striped in black enamel, emerald-eyed”, designed by [[Cartier (jeweler)|Cartier]] in Paris.<ref name=ProQuest911862354/> |
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[[Leonora Corbett]], an English actress, is said to have owned a “diamond set lorgnette that opens when she presses the second diamond from the top of its twisted golden handle” designed by [[Pierre Sterlé|Sterlé]] of Paris.<ref name=ProQuest911862354/> |
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In the oil on canvas portrait of Louise von Wertheimstein (Vienna 1813–1890), born Biedermann, she is seen to be holding a lorgnette in her right hand as she poses for her painting. |
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[[Donald Grant Mitchell]] wrote a series of satirical pamphlets titled ''The Lorgnette, or Studies of the Town'' in New York City published by bookseller [[Henry Kernot]] in the 1850s.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=25svAAAAMAAJ | title=The Lorgnette | last1=Mitchell | first1=Donald Grant | year=1854 }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=w3Hoih0FUugC&dq=henry+kernot&pg=PR15|title=Reveries of a Bachelor, Or, A Book of the Heart|first=Ik|last=Marvel|date=February 27, 1883|publisher=Scribner|via=Google Books}}</ref> |
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==See also== |
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*[[Musée des Lunettes et Lorgnettes Pierre Marly]] |
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*[[Monocle]] |
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*[[Pince-nez]] |
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== Notes == |
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{{Notelist}} |
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==References== |
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{{Commons category}} |
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{{Reflist}} |
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{{eyewear}} |
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[[Category:18th-century fashion]] |
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[[Category:19th-century fashion]] |
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Latest revision as of 12:30, 17 March 2024
A lorgnette (/lɔːˈnjɛt/) is a pair of spectacles with a handle, used to hold them in place, rather than fitting over the ears or nose. The word lorgnette is derived from the French lorgner, to take a sidelong look at, and Middle French, from lorgne, squinting.[1] Their precise origin is debated: some sources describe English scientist George Adams the elder as their inventor, while others cite his son George Adams the younger.[2][3]
The lorgnette was usually used as a piece of jewelry, rather than to enhance vision. Fashionable ladies usually preferred them to spectacles. These were very popular at masquerade parties and used often at the opera. They were worn popularly in the 19th century. The lorgnette was employed as a prop and affectation by early 20th century trial lawyer Earl Rogers, and one is featured on the front cover dust jacket of his biography, Final Verdict, by his daughter Adela Rogers St. Johns.[4]
Etymology
[edit]This word comes from French lorgnette, from lorgner (to take a sidelong look at), but it is a false friend: the equivalent French name for this (obsolete) optical instrument is face-à-main while lorgnette (or lunette d'approche, longue-vue) usually means a ship captain's (monocular) telescope.
Description and types
[edit]
Lorgnettes can typically be identified as a pair of spectacles on the end of a handle.[2] There are many types and forms of the lorgnette. The handles of a lorgnette may vary in length or may be incorporated in various decorative or functional ways.
Lorgnettes were made from a range of different materials including tortoise shell, horn, silver, gold, enamel, and various kinds of jewels.[5] Many lorgnettes had handles which also served as a protective case for the lenses to fold into, therefore making it easier to carry around.
The fan lorgnette and the double lorgnette are examples of variations of the lorgnette.
The fan lorgnette is an accessory where the lorgnette is hidden in the fan and used to inconspicuously observe others.[6] An unusual variant of the fan lorgnette is the French/Spanish “Flirtation Fan” or “Eventail Cocarde” which has a unique use of mirrors and methods of opening and closing.[6]
A double lorgnette (also known as dual purpose lorgnette) consists of two pairs of spectacle lenses of different power, typically one for far-sighted vision and one for near-sighted vision.[7]
History
[edit]From its invention to around the 17th century, corrective eyeglasses were mainly for the use of men.[8] It was not common practice for women to use optical aids unless they were to partake in specific activities or tasks in which they were required to use them such as sewing or reading.[5] Women wearing spectacles in public was also not considered attractive.[9]
Following the introduction and popularisation of the lorgnette, women became more involved with the use of optical aids. The lorgnette enabled women to view their surroundings clearly, but it was also used for social and decorative purposes. A large portion of the social life of European ladies involved the observation of the people around them, especially the attendance of others at events such as opera or theatre.[6] The lorgnette was part of the elegant games of high society.[10] The use of lorgnettes allowed women of high society to easily scrutinise objects of interest without directly facing their subject.[6]
The exact specificities of the time, people involved and nature of the invention of the lorgnette is debatable. Some sources credit English scientist George Adams the elder with their invention around 1770.[2][5] Others cite his son George Adams the younger as their inventor around 1780, although he himself credits his father with their invention in his 1789 book An Essay on Vision.[3][11] In this work, the lorgnette was described as "a kind of substitute for spectacles. Both eyes are used at once, without any effort", and was accompanied with an illustration.[11] It is also mentioned that the lorgnette was contrived to allow for more convenience and ease in looking at any occasional object.[11]
Early versions of the lorgnette were focused on the practicality and functionality of the spectacles to the user due to their round rims and heavier, undecorated designs.[5] However, over time, the lorgnette began to serve as more of a decorative accessory, especially for women attending opera or theatre.[5]
Fashion and popular culture
[edit],_born_Biedermann.jpg)
The lorgnette was presented as a necessity for English women who suffered from short-sightedness as well as a fashionable accessory.[12][9] It was thought of as an attractive alternative to conventional glasses or spectacles, as these were considered unbecoming for women to wear in public.[9] Over time, lorgnettes came to be used as decoration rather than for practical purposes.
Lorgnettes were valued for features such as how they could easily be carried around at one's own discretion and how they could be quickly taken out and lifted into place on the face to swiftly observe or find answers to questions with grace.[9][7] Lorgnettes were considered to be a great addition to outfits. This was especially so for women preparing their attire to go to the theatre or opera.[7] As a vision aid and fashion statement, it was an accessory that allowed fashionable and vision impaired women to clearly see the action on the stage with ease and to partake in the games of high society.[13][10]
The Duchess of Windsor is said to have owned a collection of lorgnettes and thereby to have brought the lorgnette back to fashion in the 1950s.[7] She is described to have been especially fond of a particular lorgnette that “springs out from a small tiger handle of gold, striped in black enamel, emerald-eyed”, designed by Cartier in Paris.[7]
Leonora Corbett, an English actress, is said to have owned a “diamond set lorgnette that opens when she presses the second diamond from the top of its twisted golden handle” designed by Sterlé of Paris.[7]
In the oil on canvas portrait of Louise von Wertheimstein (Vienna 1813–1890), born Biedermann, she is seen to be holding a lorgnette in her right hand as she poses for her painting.
Donald Grant Mitchell wrote a series of satirical pamphlets titled The Lorgnette, or Studies of the Town in New York City published by bookseller Henry Kernot in the 1850s.[14][15]
See also
[edit]Notes
[edit]References
[edit]
- ^ "Lorgnette - Definition and More from the Free Merriam-Webster Dictionary". Merriam-webster.com. Retrieved 21 October 2014.
- ^ a b c Rosenthal, J. William (1996). "Lorgnettes". Spectacles and Other Vision Aids: A History and Guide to Collecting. Norman Publishing. pp. 118–137. ISBN 978-0-930405-71-7.
- ^ a b Goes, Frank Joseph (2013-01-30). The Eye in History. JP Medical Ltd. ISBN 978-93-5090-274-5.
- ^ Final Verdict by Adela Rogers St. Johns, 1962, Doubleday & Co.[page needed]
- ^ a b c d e Handley, Neil. "Lorgnettes and folding eyeglasses". The College of Optometrists.
- ^ a b c d Rosenthal, J. Wm. (1995). "Optical uses of fans". In Albert, Daniel M.; Zrenner, Claudia (eds.). History of Ophthalmology. pp. 193–198. doi:10.1007/978-94-011-0127-1_18. ISBN 978-0-7923-3401-9.
- ^ a b c d e f "Fashion: The Lorgnette in Fashion". Vogue. 125 (8): 122, 123, 179. 1 May 1955. ProQuest 911862354.
- ^ Ilardi, Vincent (2007). Renaissance vision from spectacles to telescopes. American Philosophical Society. ISBN 978-0-87169-259-7. OCLC 74966726.[page needed]
- ^ a b c d "The Lorgnette". Harper's Bazaar. Vol. 28, no. 27. 6 July 1895. p. 544. ProQuest 1914172686.
- ^ a b Goes, Frank Joseph (2013). Eye in history. Jaypee Brothers. ISBN 978-93-5090-274-5. OCLC 813930522.[page needed]
- ^ a b c Adams, George (1789). An essay on vision, briefly explaining the fabric of the eye. London: R. Hindmarsh. p. 117 – via Internet Archive.
- ^ Cunnington, C. Willett (1990). English women's clothing in the nineteenth century. Dover Publications. ISBN 978-0-486-31963-6. OCLC 853623780.[page needed]
- ^ The literary lorgnette: attending opera in imperial Russia. 1 November 2000.
- ^ Mitchell, Donald Grant (1854). "The Lorgnette".
- ^ Marvel, Ik (February 27, 1883). "Reveries of a Bachelor, Or, A Book of the Heart". Scribner – via Google Books.
